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Stories · From Our Guests

Tracking Rhino on Foot: A Guest’s Story

A guest story by Donia Walbaum · 8 min read

Some of the best things we can tell you about a Hidden Track safari come better from a guest. This is Donia’s story, in her own words.

“I was lucky enough to travel twice with Hidden Track Africa, and I can say without hesitation that these were the best travels of my life. I’ve had encounters with the wild from a very young age, but the experiences I had with Skander and his team were simply unmatched — their passion, their true respect for nature, wildlife and local cultures, and, cherry on the cake, the food was exquisite.”

A walking safari to remember

“Writing these lines makes me walk down memory lane. I remember a walking safari where I was hiding behind a bush, five metres from a black rhino — feeling immensely lucky to observe it so closely, and at the same time completely safe. I remember an intense eye contact with a lioness for more than ten minutes. She stood in front of me, a couple of metres away, and I was in the car, totally hypnotised.”

“Five metres from a black rhino — immensely lucky, and completely safe.”

Why walking changes everything

That’s the thing about tracking wildlife on foot. In a vehicle you’re an observer; on foot you’re in it — reading the wind, treading quietly, feeling your own smallness on the plains. Led by armed, deeply experienced guides who read the bush like a book, a walking safari is both exhilarating and genuinely safe. Your senses recalibrate: you notice the alarm call of a bird, the fresh track in the dust, the shift in the breeze that decides whether an animal ever knows you were there.

What a walking safari is really like

Forget the Hollywood image of dodging charging beasts. A walking safari is a slow, absorbing masterclass in reading the wild. You set out in a small group, single file behind an armed guide and often a tracker, after a careful briefing. The magic is in the details you’d never notice from a vehicle: the story written in a fresh track, the age of a pile of dung, a bent blade of grass, the direction of the wind that decides everything. When you do approach an animal on foot — always at a respectful distance, always downwind — the intimacy is unlike anything a game drive can offer.

The rhino you might meet

Black rhinos (Diceros bicornis) are critically endangered — fewer than about 6,500 survive, and Kenya is one of their last great strongholds, in sanctuaries like Lewa and Ol Pejeta. You can tell a black rhino from its larger white cousin by the mouth: black rhinos have a pointed, almost prehensile upper lip for plucking leaves and twigs, while white rhinos have a broad, flat lip for grazing grass. Solitary and famously short-sighted, they navigate the world through extraordinary hearing and smell — which is exactly why the direction of the wind matters so much on foot.

Did you know?
“Black” and “white” rhinos are in fact the same grey colour. “White” is thought to be a mistranslation of the Dutch wijd (“wide”), describing the white rhino’s broad, grass-cropping lip — which left the pointed-lipped species to be called “black” simply by contrast.

A fight for survival — and a Kenyan success story

To stand near a wild rhino today is to witness a small miracle. Poached relentlessly for their horns, black rhino numbers crashed by around 98% during the twentieth century. Kenya has been at the heart of the fightback: armed ranger teams, careful translocations, and fiercely protected sanctuaries have slowly nudged numbers upward again. Ol Pejeta — home to the last two northern white rhinos on the planet, guarded around the clock — has become a global symbol of that effort. Every rhino you meet on foot is the result of thousands of hours of quiet, determined protection.

Did you know?
A rhino’s horn is made of keratin — the very same protein as your hair and fingernails — and has no proven medicinal value whatsoever. Yet the myth has driven these ancient animals to the brink, which is why every rhino sighting on safari is, quietly, a victory worth celebrating.

Experiencing the wild on foot is a unique journey — and an inner one, too. It is, for many of our guests, the single moment they never stop talking about.

“Experiencing the wild is a unique journey, and an inner one. I lived it to the fullest thanks to this serious, trustworthy agency. Thank you, a million times, Hidden Track Africa, for putting sparkles in my heart.”

— Donia Walbaum, Hidden Track guest
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